Bitter Springs, so sweet

Bitter Springs is one of two natural thermal pools in Mataranka, south of Katherine. It’s noticeably more warm and humid this far north. And I am noticeably happier!

One thing I am little less happy about is that we are now in croc country. A week or so before the Springs had been closed to the public due to a croc sighting. A saltie no less! There has also recently been a croc attack at Wangi Falls in Litchfield Park. The kids delight in terrorising me about my croc fear but seriously, they are apex predators and scary as all hell.

Very few could resist Bitter Springs however, crocs or not. Framed by charcoal-trunked cabbage palm trees and spiky dracaenas, and the water is a pleasant 34 degrees Celsius, crystal clear and with an almost artificial-looking aqua tint. Red dragonflies the size of tiny birds dart about and waterlilies and reeds line the springs. There’s a gentle current so people get in at one spot then bob downstream on their noodles, dazed looks on their faces.

The caravan park is the closest to the springs, only a 500m walk away along Roper River. As a mom-and-pop style caravan park you never really know what you’ll get. It could be cute and charming or a bit bleak. Turns out this time it was the former option, with homemade mango chutney and mango iceblocks, movie nights and well-tended if rustic amenities. The unpowered sites in particular were all top notch, each nestled amongst trees and greenery, and all closer to river (and springs access). There were three in particular, right on the river bank and studded with shady trees and palms, that would have to be some of the dreamiest in Australia. It was hard not to ogle those lucky bastards but then I also knew I’d be too squeamish about the river proximity, and our little spot was very close and still lovely. More importantly, Lux loved it! Upon arrival she kept running about excitedly calling out, “I’m happy, I’m happy, I’m happy!” And I even got some gentle little hugs of thanks for suggesting the park. “You did good, mum.”

📍Mangarayi and Yungman Country