
Before leaving home, someone said to us: “People will always try to warn you off certain routes. You’ve just got to give them a go for yourself.” And that was certainly the case with the Mereenie Loop Road, the unsealed track most directly connecting Watarrka National Park and Tjoritja (Macdonnell Ranges). The staff at Kings Creek Station ranged from cagey vagueness to outright admonition. The French man we bought the Loop Permit from (a Permit required as it passes through Aboriginal land) was quite sure we’d fail and incredulously wished us luck, assuring me (with a tinge of pride) that it would certainly be worse than the Oodnadatta Track. The lady at the petrol station wouldn’t recommend it. But then other hardy and optimistic travellers seemed willing to give it a go, and so we did.



Turns out, it was fine, and basically the same as the Oodnadatta Track. A couple of hundred kilometres shorter than the other route (which also went over unsealed road), it was worth giving it a go, as we’d been advised. Or worth ignoring advice, you could also say.

The trip was 275km and our destination was Finke River 2 Mile Campground. This was a site we knew little about but as most other places were booked out (or we were worried about the 4WD clearance) we opted for this spot. And, it was one of those rare occasions when a slight gamble completely exceeded expectations! This was bush camping at its best. We arrived in the golden hour when the sun is dropping but the heat hasn’t gone yet. Some other campers were even swimming (water was freezing though!). Hawks wheeled above. Apparently the Finke River is one of the oldest in the world. The rust-coloured Macdonell Ranges framed the sand, which was pale and fine like a beach.





We had one day to explore the gorges of the Macdonnell Ranges. None of us felt like a big walk this day so we just stuck to strolling to the waterholes and back.






We had a lazy afternoon at the campsite, feeling quite smug that our spot was infinitely superior to any of the other camping options we’d seen in our travels that day. Sometimes you get it right (and usually through no genius of your own).
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